Thesis
Through my close relationship and from the results of my interview with Yvon Gachette, I will argue that he utilizes juxtapositions of semiotic codes of dress to construct and reinforce his ambiguous identity based on his philosophy of being categorically ambivalent. Without adhering to social constructs of authenticity to any particular group’s stereotypes or expectations, Yvon chooses to present himself in a way to defy these social precognitions. By precisely playing with “imagined judgments of appearance” (Stone, 23), Yvon portrays an outward identity of creative deception— a consciously curated dualistic nature of “socialistic adaptation to society and individual departure from its demands” (Simmel, 542).
Methodology
This case study is an in-depth articulation of daily conversations I typically have with my close friend, Yvon Gachette. We often discuss fashion theory and perceptions of identity through dress over wine and dinner, as existential musings of our experience as foreigners in Paris (and on earth as members of the human species for that matter). My methods for continuing this discussion consisted of twenty-five multi-part questions aiming to uncover the subtleties of identity constructs through dress. I began with general questions of typical clothing characteristic attractions, followed by inquiries of intentions and motivations of dress, concluded with personal concept articulations of style, identity and the self.
Being that I know Yvon on an intimate friendship level, I had my personal preconceptions of his general philosophies which proved to be beneficial for my comprehension, but at the same time challenging for me to objectively proliferate questions without over direction. Our normal confluence of discourse regarding the subject of self-perceptions and dress typically consists of a mutual conference of ideas and philosophies. The methodology for this interview, however, was an exercise of self-discipline for me to remain as an active listener and conductor of inquiry.
Through this active-participant interview, many of my predisposed notions were confirmed as well as elaborated upon and new ones emerged. Additionally, I came to learn and discover more in-depth aspects of my close friend’s complexity of psyche, philosophy and culturally ambiguous background. By consulting the texts of Georg Simmel, Gregory P. Stone, Fred Davis, and others, I will discuss their arguments of semiotics and theories of symbolic interaction, dualities of soul, social conformity and authenticity.
Analysis
After wandering through the unfamiliar streets of Paris on a cold January evening, I arrived at the first orientation meeting for the American University of Paris’ (AUP) new graduate students. The sixteen or seventeen of us were seated in a U-shaped configuration of tables, all visible to one another. This was the impression generator. We all quietly sat observing each other in these first moments of speculation. As is normally done in these type of meetings, everyone in the room took turns introducing themselves. Yvon was an instant intrigue. At that time, his accent (Haitian Creole/French/American English) was so unrecognizable to me, and his style of dress so understated yet mysteriously unique, I couldn't tell if he was gay, or foreign, or both. In thinking that, I instantly perceived that there was more to his cultural background than just being a Bostonian with an undergraduate degree in philosophy as he concisely described himself. As I have come to learn from the subsequent close friendship we developed in the following months (and supplemented by my recent in-depth interview with him), the first impression I had of Yvon’s ambiguity was precisely the effect he wanted to achieve through his self-presentation. Yvon’s identity construction is one that the outside viewer simply can’t put a finger on, and it’s this uncertainty of categorical placement that lends itself to the ontology of Yvon Gachette.
The premise of my interview was to begin by forming the main attractions of dress and cultivate semiotic codes of dress to analyze. Semiotic codes act as the binding ligaments in the shared understandings that comprise a sphere of discourse and its associated social arrangements. Meanings are evoked by the combinations and permutations of the clothing code’s key terms: fabric, texture, color, pattern, volume, silhouette and occasion, which are forever shifting, or “in process” (Davis, 5). Yvon described his choices of dress to be based solely on aesthetic appeal. Brand loyalty and fashion trends have never been influences of his clothing choices. Despite what many of my classmates assumed during my presentation of this thesis, Yvon is not part of the fashion track of the AUP’s global communication master’s program. He assumes this is because he chooses to dress in a way that others see as fashionable, while remaining completely ambivalent to the structure of fashion trends in a generalized sense.
In the words of Simmel, “Man has ever had a dualistic nature” (Simmel, 541), and Yvon could be the poster boy for this revelation. The colors, fabrics and structure of the garments he chooses and the combination of these aspects is a constructed visual language of the image he chooses to portray, given his current mood or intentions for that day or specific event. Through symbolic means we communicate through non-discursive, visual and tactile means which are imprecise and elusive (Davis, 8). Yvon conveyed to me a realization of subconscious behaviors of being attracted to color-blocking and black and white contrasts as a stylistic manifestation of his yin and yang philosophy of life— a balance of oppositions. “I’m not one or the other, but both,” Yvon explained, “I like to bend the norms— Classy and trashy. Chaos and order. Esoteric and enigmatic. Masculine and feminine. Conservative and sexy. Good and evil. Eclectic and pragmatic.”
This notion of simultaneous oppositions was elaborated upon when I asked what item of clothing he had the most of and what that type of clothing meant to him, he described his significant amounts of tailored blazers and loafers as social signifiers of sophistication and professionalism while still looking casual by pairing them with skinny jeans or colored chinos. “Loafers to me are the perfect balance of casual yet classy. They’re slick, chic and casual," he said. “It’s the perfect way to not look too professional or too juvenile. I feel like at a certain age, a man needs to graduate to real shoes, and casual loafers are the perfect in-between, they're not too serious, but you’re also still looking put-together.”
“There seem to be two tendencies in the individual soul, as well as in society,” (Simmel, 542). Individuality is still fabricated upon the collective norms of society. Even without deliberately following fashion trends, there is still an elemental understanding of the codes of clothing discourse. For example, Yvon finds his wardrobe filled with fabrics of aesthetic tactility in colors of subdued neutrality mixed with bolder hues. Velvet, leather, satin and shiny patent, to him, exude an essence of luxury and wealth that stands out and appears “expensive and larger than life,” as he put it. The assumed expense of these materials and tailoring of styles plays into the conscious role Yvon admittedly “performs” as someone of a higher class status than his bank account or clothing’s price tags may reflect.
Along the lines of contextual realizations, Yvon spoke about his cultural disconnect and underlying influences reflected in the way he dresses. As he explained that Haitians are typically not open to homosexuality, his modes of dress are often scrutinized more heavily. He stated that his alternative style choices automatically make him seen as "crazy or gay, or both" by his Haitian relatives due to their interpretation of his overtly “gay style sensibilities.” This is in opposition to his Western counterparts of whom commend and continually approve of his style choices. However, he credits his Haitian/French influenced background as one reason to why he always makes a concerted effort to ensure that he looks put-together and respectable— even if he’s only going to class or the grocery store. For Haitians, it's expected and valued for individuals to care about their appearances. Yvon also explained that Haitians of little means will still utilize what they have in order to maintain a style identity— that is, the individual construction of an aesthetic based not just on what one wears, but on how one may wear it. The individual recombines elements in their own way. The source of the elements is unimportant (Miller, 15). Yvon echoed this sentiment, “Maybe you don't have the economic wealth, but your style states that you have social wealth or aesthetic capital. Money can buy fashion, but style is innate, it’s an artistic cultivation of personality."
Yvon knows how to take advantage of clothing-code signifiers of wealth in order establish power and dominance in certain settings. “I do purposely, sometimes, try to gain the respect of a powerful person and put myself in a certain hierarchy with my clothing choices,” he explained. He uses his stylistic choices to command respect, communicate a mood or intention as well as articulate his sexuality. He described this tactic as serving as a shield of protection from past experiences of disrespect or misunderstanding, but at the same time can also initiate those situations in different contexts. This act of dress is upheld by Stone’s explanation of appearance and the self: “A person’s dress also imbues him with attitudes by arousing others’ anticipation of his conduct as well as assisting the mobilization of his own activity... One’s clothes impart value to the wearer, both in the wearer’s own eyes and in the eyes of others” (Stone, 23). Whether this value is deemed as acceptable or not is completely context dependent and based on the social variability of perceptions of dress (Davis, 8).
As an example of perceptive ambiguity, a seemingly simple, black and white scarf, patterned with stars and crossed arrows is the item of dress Yvon finds to be the most reflective of his identity. The ability for the scarf to be open and flowing, or tied up and conservative also qualities he finds in his concept of personal identity, in addition to the continued reflection of contrasting black and white, the yin and the yang, and the presence of Plato’s triangles within the stars representative of his passion for and understanding of philosophy. The arrows represent the meaning of his name (an archer), with the stars representing his energetic quality of “star power” and his ability to command attention in an enigmatic way. The celestial, “larger than life” symbolism of the stars hold true to Yvon’s inner-self, where he describes feeling as though he’s an “other” or an “extra person”— an uncategorized being without set boundaries of an identifiable identity. Something as small or outwardly insignificant as a satin scarf, can hold much more meaning to the wearer than any outside observer could ever cultivate based on appearance alone. And it is the all encompassing garment of representation for Yvon, because like him, it exists as something that is not quite what it seems.
Yvon believes it's important to convey his self-perception through the way he dresses, but understands that because signifiers and symbols are multidimensional, he's not afraid of potential misinterpretations because he isn't motivated to dress for the approval or attention of others anyway. “I think that it would be nice to be seen for what I think I am, but it’s not the end of the world if people see something else. People judge my sexual preferences as submissive by how I dress. It bothers me, so it’s important, but it's not important enough for me to change my style to present a dominant appearance. I’m fine with looking submissive, but actually being dominant. Just like I don’t mind appearing rich even though I don't what to pretend that I am rich. I defer the blame [of misinterpretation] on people’s preconceptions and living on appearances... And not knowing that everything is not what it seems.”
He also carries this mantra into the way he portrays himself on social media outlets. In accordance to the notion that clothing is frequently seen as symbolic of the individual's status and mortality, whether actual or contrived (Fickelstein, 128), many of Yvon’s social media posts feature personal style photographs that radiate the glamorous essence of a fashion blogger’s world while adventuring through Europe. Images of Yvon appearing to be “living the life,” are all carefully curated to articulate his perception of an idealized identity. “Usually those who really have it hard are silent or isolated, but it's like I’ve created a fantasy world of my own to escape my actual reality... Yet at the same time it’s all part of me, those moments existed. [Social media] is also, in a way, my own parody of life and appearances. But despite the so-called deception, I’m also one of the more honest people on social media with [expressing] my reality. I post it all.”
“There is though a narcissistic pleasure of transforming oneself in one's own eyes and those of others, of 'changing one's skin,' feeling like— and becoming— someone else, by changing the way one dresses" (Lipovetski, 79). In Yvon’s case, he doesn't adhere to one particular identity, class or role. The manner in which he dresses may be considered by some as an inauthentic façade of fallacies, but as he argues, nothing is ever as it seems. "In tracing and framing the real, it gains power and definition" (Phelan, 103). Authenticity and incredulity are social constructs of framing identities and we use clothing as a methodological choice to play up or conceal. Each one of us accentuates aspects of ourselves to hide internal struggles. “Dress could play a part, for example, either to glue the false identity together on the surface, or to lend a theatrical and play-acting aspect to the hallucinatory experience of the contemporary world; we become actors, inventing our costumes for each successive appearance... Perhaps style becomes a substitute for identity, perhaps it's fluidity (in theory it can be changed at will) offers an alternative to the stagnant fixity of ‘old-fashioned’ ideas of personality and core identity, perhaps on the contrary it is used to fix identity more firmly. Either way, we may still understand dress as one tool in the creation of identities” (Wilson, 8-9). In this landscape of Facebook profiles and Instagram feeds, as Yvon explained, “Everyone shows the engagement, but not the divorce.” He raises the question of how anyone’s outward identity can be considered authentic without exposing all facets of one’s beauty and torment. ❂